How To Create Nail Extensions

We know that plenty of your clients will be coming to you for one thing: lovely long nails.

We have three different gel extension products to help create stronger, longer nails – and we’re going to take you through each of them so that you can find the perfect Bluesky solution for your clients, and a product you love using too.

We've also included some FAQs at the bottom of the blog to give beginners to nail extensions some extra tips.

Hard Gel

What is Hard Gel?

Hard Gel is a great product if you’re looking to add strength to the natural nail. You can use Hard Gel as an overlay on the natural nail to give additional strength, so it's a great solution for clients who struggle with thin nails that easily break

Hard Gel comes in a bottle – just like gel polish – so it's simple to apply and cure under an LED/UV lamp. Hard Gel comes in four different colours so you can choose a shade that suits the look your client is going for. Clear is a great option for when you're using any gel polish colour over the top, where as pink or soft clear pink can be perfect options for a natural look.

How to apply Hard Gel for overlays

How do I apply Hard Gel?

Our favourite way to use Hard Gel is for overlays to add additional strength to the natural nail. You'll only need your usual gel polish set up plus your chosen colour of Hard Gel.

  • Start with your Bluesky Base Coat as normal, curing for 60 seconds LED/2 minutes UV.
  • Apply 1 thin layer of Hard Gel in your chosen colour and cure for 60 seconds LED/2 minutes UV.
  • Apply a further thin layer of Hard Gel and cure again.
  • Apply your gel polish colour as normal – using 2-3 coats depending on the look you’re after and curing for 60 seconds LED/2 minutes UV for each coat.
  • Finish with a Bluesky Top Coat and cure for 60 seconds LED/2 minutes UV and wipe with a cleanser wipe for a high-shine finish.

Gum Gel

What is Gum Gel?

Gum Gel, or polygel, is a brilliant nail extension product for creating medium to long extensions.

Its gum-like consistency makes it easy to work with and much more flexible than traditional extension products. You’re able to sculpt the product as much as you need before curing, which means less filing and shaping.

How do I apply Gum Gel?

Before you get started, make sure you have:

Here’s how to create extensions using tips/dual forms:

  • Take your first dual form and apply a small circle of Gum Gel. Using cleanser and an orangewood stick, spread the product out to cover the tip to your desired length.
  • Dip a brush in your cleanser (you don't need too much cleanser, wipe any excess away from the brush) and continue to flatten down the Gum Gel into the tip.
  • Apply the dual form to the nail and clean up any excess product on the skin/around your nails with a brush dipped in cleanser. Once happy, cure for 60 seconds LED/2 minutes UV.
  • Remove the dual form and repeat the process for all nails. Once finished, use your Bluesky Nail File to shape the extensions and your Bluesky Nail Buffer to take the shine off the nails. Wipe any excess debris away with a cleanser wipe.
  • You can then continue with your base coat, colour coat and top coat as normal for your client's desired look.


Here’s how to create extensions using forms:

  • Begin by applying Bluesky Base Coat, curing for 60 seconds LED/2 minutes UV.
  • Apply a form to your first nail and apply Gum Gel to your nail (you can use an orangewood stick or cuticle pusher to do this).
  • Dip your brush in cleanser and shape the nail. Carefully spread the Gum Gel to your desired length and shape using the form for guidance. 
  • Apply more Gum Gel to create an apex; you'll want to find the stress-point of the nail (where it's most likely to break) and apply the Gum Gel thicker here. Spread the rest of the Gum Gel out towards the tip of the nail.
  • Once happy, with the shape and length, go around the nail one final time with your brush and cleanser to remove any excess product before you cure for 60 seconds LED/2 minutes UV.
  • Take a look at the nail from the side to ensure the apex is big enough for creating your longer extensions - repeat the process if needed.
  • Repeat the process for all nails. Once finished, file into your client's desired shape with your Bluesky Nail File and use your Bluesky Nail Buffer to remove the shine from the nails.
  • Wipe nails with a Bluesky Cleanser Wipe and you’re ready to continue the gel manicure with your base coat, colour coat and top coat.

    Builder Gel

    What is Builder Gel?

    Builder Gel is another of our favourite products for creating gel extensions. Perfect for any length of extension, the product is easy to apply using nail forms and is cured as normal under a LED/UV lamp.

    The difference between Builder Gel and Gum Gel is the product consistency – Builder Gel is thinner and more liquid-like, meaning you’ll need to apply and cure before you can properly shape the nails. Because of the consistency, you don't need a slip solution/cleanser when applying Builder Gel.

    How do I apply Builder Gel?

    Before you get started, make sure you have:


    How to create nail extensions using forms:

    • Begin with a Bluesky Base Coat and cure for 60 seconds LED/2 minutes UV.
    • Apply a form to the first nail. Dip your brush into your pot of Builder Gel and apply, spreading out the product to your desired length and shape.
    • Apply more Builder Gel to create an apex; you'll want to find the middle point of the nail and apply the Builder Gel thicker here (just like Gum Gel). Spread the rest of the Builder Gel out towards the form/where the tip of the nail will be.
    • Turn your client's hand upside down for 20-30 seconds for the gel to self-level.
    • Cure for 60 seconds LED/2 minutes UV to set the gel.
    • Apply a further layer of Builder Gel using the same process and cure once finished. The longer the extension, the more time you'll need to spend creating your apex to ensure the nails don't break at the stress-point.
    • Repeat the process for all nails. Once finished, take your Bluesky Nail File to shape the nails and use your Bluesky Nail Buffer to remove the shine.
    • Wipe all nails with a Bluesky Cleansing Wipe and then go ahead with your base coat, colour gel polish and top coat to create your client's finished look.

    How to create nail extensions using tips/dual forms:

    • Begin with a Bluesky Base Coat and cure for 60 seconds LED/2 minutes UV.
    • Dip your brush into your pot of Builder Gel and apply to the dual form, spreading out the product to your desired length and shape.
    • Apply more Builder Gel to create an apex; you'll want to find the middle point of the nail and apply the Builder Gel thicker here (just like Gum Gel). 
    • Be careful not to add too much product to the dual form - this can cause the product to come out the sides when it's pressed onto the nail. If you do have any excess product, make sure you wipe it away with a brush.
    • Gently press the dual form onto your client's nail. Cure for 60 seconds LED/2 minutes UV to set the gel.
    • Pinch the dual form at the sides to remove it. If you need to apply another layer of Builder Gel to create a stronger apex, then follow the steps above again. The longer the extension, the more time you'll need to spend creating your apex to ensure the nails don't break at the stress-point.
    • Repeat the process for all nails. Once finished, take your Bluesky Nail File to shape the nails and use your Bluesky Nail Buffer to remove the shine.
    • Wipe all nails with a Bluesky Cleansing Wipe and then go ahead with your base coat, colour gel polish and top coat to create your client's finished look.

    How to create gel extensions from home

    Do I need to build an apex for nail extensions?

    Building an apex will give your client's nails more strength and make sure they don't break, which is important when creating longer nail extensions.

    The apex is the highest/thickest point of a nail enhancement, and should be created at the stress point where your nails are most likely to bend - we've included this in the how to guides above for the steps to follow.

    How do I build an apex?

    When applying your gel extension product, make sure you apply the product so that the bulk of the product is at the stress-point of the nail where it's most likely to break. You can then lightly thin out the tip - when you turn the nail to the side, you'll see a slight ridge.

    The longer the enhancement, the higher and further back the apex will need to be.

    Can I soak off nail extensions?

    Yes, all Bluesky nail extension products can be soaked off using acetone just like your gel polish.

    Can I infill with nail extension products?

    You can! All Bluesky nail extension products can be infilled. You’ll want to file off the top coat first (and the colour coat if you’re changing the gel polish colour too). Apply the gel extension product in the gap. Even out the product over the nail and, once happy, cure for 60 seconds LED/2 minutes UV. You’ll then be ready to file, shape and continue with the gel manicure.

    Which nail extension product should I use?

    Overlays – Hard Gel
    Short extensions – Builder Gel or Gum Gel
    Medium to long extensions – Builder Gel or Gum Gel

    Is there a difference between Gum Gel in a tube and in a pot?

    The only difference is the size. Our tube of Gum Gel is 60g and our Gum Gel pots come in 15g and 35g sizes. The tube means the Gum Gel can be squeezed out, where as you can use a brush, orangewood stick or another tool to get the Gum Gel out the pots.

    I have another question about nail extensions - can you help?

    We are always uploading new tutorial videos to our YouTube channel, so make sure you watch those for more guidance. If you still need advice, make sure you join our Facebook Group (for professionals only) for any advice about our products and application!